The wok
The wok has become hugely popular as a way of cooking healthy food fast. Preparing delicious meals in one is easy once you know a few trick
The wok lets you cook quickly with very little fat. It heats up fast and cooks at high heat, so food is ready in minutes, and because of its curved shape, food falls naturally to the bottom, where the heat is most intense. It is one of the most versatile pans you can own — good for stir-frying, deep-frying, steaming, and even braising.
Choosing a wok
Woks come in many sizes, ranging from around 25 cm to 60 cm in diameter, and in a wide variety of materials and finishes. Each has its strengths:
- Carbon steel — the traditional choice and still the best for most home cooks. It heats quickly, responds fast to changes in temperature, and develops a natural non-stick patina with use. It needs seasoning (see below).
- Cast iron — heavier and slower to heat, but holds heat very well and is extremely durable. Also needs seasoning.
- Stainless steel — does not rust and needs no seasoning, but does not develop a patina and can stick more readily.
- Anodised aluminium and forge-cast — lightweight and even-heating, a good middle ground for those who find carbon steel or cast iron too heavy.
- Non-stick — easy to clean and requires no seasoning, but cannot be used at the very high temperatures that give wok cooking its character, and needs gentle utensils to avoid scratching.
The base matters as much as the material. Round-based woks suit gas burners, where the flame wraps around the curved base — often with the help of a metal wok ring for stability. Flat-based woks are the better match for electric and halogen stovetops, where they sit squarely on the heat. Portable electric woks are also available if your stovetop is not well suited to wok cooking.
Seasoning a new wok
Stainless steel and non-stick woks do not require seasoning. A carbon steel or cast iron wok, however, should be seasoned before its first use. Seasoning prepares the surface for the searing temperatures wok cooking demands, and begins building the natural non-stick patina that makes a well-used wok such a pleasure to cook with. Many woks now come pre-seasoned — check the manufacturer's instructions — but most benefit from seasoning at home regardless.
To season a wok on the stovetop:
- Wash the new wok in hot soapy water to remove all traces of manufacturing grease, then dry it thoroughly.
- Place the wok over high heat. When it is hot, use a ball of absorbent paper to rub about 1 tablespoon of cooking oil all over the inside surface.
- Leave the wok over high heat for about 10 minutes, wiping the surface from time to time with a ball of absorbent paper.
- Repeat the process twice more.
Be warned: seasoning a wok this way creates a fair amount of smoke, since you are effectively burning the oil onto the surface of the metal. Work with good ventilation — open a window and turn on the extractor fan — and for your own safety, wear oven gloves when handling the hot wok and the oil-soaked paper.
As an alternative, you can season a wok in the oven: rub it all over with a thin layer of oil and heat it upside down at around 220°C (425°F) for an hour, letting it cool in the oven afterwards. This produces less smoke at the stovetop, though the oven itself will smoke a little.
Cooking with a wok
The single most important trick is preparation. Wok cooking is very fast, so everything must be ready before you start. Cut all your ingredients into regular pieces of similar size — it does not matter whether small cubes or thin strips, as long as they are even, so everything cooks at the same rate. Have your sauces and seasonings measured and within reach, with all lids removed. Once the wok is hot, there is no time to start chopping.
Add only a little cooking oil, and always once the wok is already hot — unless it has a non-stick coating. Wait until the oil itself is hot before adding food. Use flavoured oils if you like, and a splash of sauce — soy, fish sauce, or anything that matches your dish — often means you need no added salt. Keep the food moving, stirring almost continuously so it sears without burning. When the cooking is done, let the food stand in the wok for a minute or two before serving.
More than stir-frying
A wok is remarkably versatile. You can:
- Stir-fry — the classic use, and you can stir-fry with a little stock instead of oil for a lighter result.
- Deep-fry — for tempura and other fried foods, add plenty of oil and wait until it is hot. The wok's shape means less splatter than a flat frying pan, and uses less oil to reach a good depth.
- Steam — set a rack or trivet in the base, or a bamboo steamer inside the wok, place the food on it, and cover with a lid to keep the steam in.
- Braise and stew — the wok's even heat and generous capacity suit slow-cooked dishes as well as fast ones.
Caring for your wok
A carbon steel or cast iron wok rewards a little care and will last for decades — often improving with age.
- Wash gently. After every use, wash the wok in hot soapy water with a sponge or cloth. Never use scourers, steel wool, or harsh abrasives, which strip away the seasoning you have worked to build.
- Dry thoroughly. Dry the wok completely by placing it on the stovetop over low heat for a few minutes. Any trapped moisture will cause rust.
- Oil before storing. Rub or spray a thin layer of cooking oil all over the inside surface before putting the wok away. This seals the surface and prevents rust between uses.
A traditional iron or carbon steel wok will darken from brown to black with use. Do not worry — this is exactly what you want. As the old kitchen saying goes, "the darker the wok, the better the cook."
Wok tools
A few utensils make wok cooking easier:
- Wok chan — a shovel-like turner used for lifting, tossing, and stirring food. Traditionally made of metal, it is ideal for carbon steel and cast iron woks. For non-stick woks, choose a plastic wok chan or a wooden spatula that will not scratch the surface.
- Wok ring — a metal collar that holds a round-based wok steady over a gas burner.
- Lid — essential for steaming and braising; a domed lid gives the most room.
Steaming rack or bamboo steamer — turns the wok into a steamer for dumplings, fish, and vegetables.